Checkout | 30. Sep 2020

The Coat Of Conduct

He's back. The trenchcoat, once created for soldiers during World War One, soon enough became part of the British officer's uniform. And then the favorite style of those screen idols who loved to wield their weapons, like, Humphrey Bogart or Alain Delon. And briefly also a classic in women´s wardrobe. Inspired by film stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren or Catherine Deneuve, you wore the coat with skin-tight costume or over Capri pants, but also with evening dresses, just in case it might rain.

During the seventies the trenchcoat got a fashionable touch: Shockingly bright colored, mini-short, in latex or patent leather, it took part in the women's liberation movement. It suddenly provoked, counteracted its own genesis. It´s image had been deconstructed or even reinvented by designers, the good old trenchcoat disappeared in second-hand fees or on fleamarkets.

When the brand "Burberry's" was given a new image in 1998, its most famous collection piece was also back in the spotlight: The half-length coat, its inner lining designed by Thomas Burberry, was literally turned inside out, modeled by Kate Moss, together with a whole prêt -à-porter collection, up to a bikini with that famous check. And suddenly the trench coat was at the top of every young girls' wish list again, because it had become pretty expensive as well.

Around that time I found in my mother's basement her old trench coat, in a garment bag, on a cedar hanger against the moths. Which she no longer wear since it became too big for her; it fit me perfectly. I still remembered how she had defended the price tag with the coat´s lasting quality and classic design, she used to call clothes that survived several seasons "thankful".

I started to wear the coat for years. Meaning, actually, not during the last three, four years.

Then I saw a picture of Kate Moss on Instagram, in a trench coat from “Coach” , with graffiti motifs by painter Jean-Michel Basquiat.

And right there and then, I knew what I would wear that first rainy day this year.